Reading magazines is truly a guilty pleasure for me.  Every month, when Vogue, Marie Claire, or any other magazine I fancy comes out, I race to buy it.  In the first moments when I quickly scan through the pages, I get so excited that my heart is always pounding!! Lately, I’ve been branching out into Asian magazines and have found some very meaty publications.  Considering the rise of fashion in Asia, I would recommend these to any serious Fashionista.

My favourite of recent publications has been the April 2010 issue of Style magazine (Singapore).  Not only does the issue raise a lot of eyebrows with their fashion related questions, I also had a series of “aha” moments as I read on.  I was blown away.  Now that’s what I call a good read!

In one article, “Curiouser & Curiouser,” writer May Yip questions whether some over the top designer looks are meant strictly for the runway.  If it works on a magazine cover, does it really work for an ordinary day? The piece is centered around an experiment where Yip took a Louis Vuitton ensemble straight off the runway (from the brand’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection) and wore it on the streets of Singapore.  The reactions? Well, what else can you expect when you pair metallic shorts with bicycle tights underneath and a smart blazer.

The truth is, most designers send some looks down the runway strictly for editorial purposes.  They are simply not meant for mere mortals, unless they want to be mistaken for an OTT fashion faux-pas! Is that wrong? Producing garments that are essentially not meant to be sold or worn? Absolutely not! Designers use this to create a name for themselves, to build a reputation for their design house, to lure viewers to buy their goods, to get their featured in magazines (and perhaps their covers), the list goes on.  Like Betty Suarez declared in an epiphany she once had, it is art.  It goes beyond the concept and design…the workmanship that is put into some of these garments is extremely detailed and intricate.  Through these show pieces and their collections in general, designers convey their views on society or even the world, which we decode to form trends.  It is with these trends that we ultimately get a taste of what was once upon a time, showcased on the runway.

So…would I wear that Louis Vuitton ensemble? Maybe as separates (if it works) but definitely not as an entire look.  I’d rather stare at the art than wear the art.

Image Source: Scanned from Style magazine (April 2010)

Please tell me I dreamt this.

As I was walking in the subway today, I noticed this (please excuse the poor photoraphy as it was taken with my iPhone).

And this.

Of course I saw the Diesel logo but I just didn’t get it.  A quick search on Google explained that Diesel launched a campaign earlier this Spring to encourage consumers to “be stupid,” arguing that it makes people take more risks and go beyond smart people.

Consumers were encouraged to send videos of stupid things they did to be a part of Diesel’s online video catalog so that they could eventually share their stupidity to the world.  You can learn more about it here.  Is this what marketing has come to???

In our day and age, where we witness Gossip Girl-like drama unfold in front of us in every realm of our society (hello Tiger Woods and Eliot Spitzer!), where it’s considered “cool” for young Hollywood role models to be jailed and commit crimes, a time when 15 minutes of fame couldn’t be sought after more and where our TVs are filled with reality programs and shows that center around…well, nothing; how could such a global, powerful fashion brand that targets the younger generation be encouraging more of this?

Yes, the ad grabbed my attention right away and even encouraged me to approach its website.  However, after learning of the idea behind the campaign, I was not only turned off but convinced that the thought of stupidity would be stuck in my head every time I see the brand from here on.  And to think that I fit right smack in the middle of their target market! Pick and choose your battles Diesel, pick and choose.

Image Source.  Diesel.com

Alexander McQueen's oyster dress, Spring/Summer 2003

2 years ago, I stood on the ground floor of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and stared endlessly at Alexander McQueen’s “oyster dress”.  I must have looked through the glass for almost 20 minutes, as it was my first time being so close to one of the label’s designs.  I was mesmerized by the work of art that so nakedly gazed back at me.

The layers of raw cut silk organza so rough and unfinished, was a perfect depiction of the massacre behind the designer’s inspiration – a shipwreck at sea and a consequent landfall in the Amazon.  Looking at that one gown gave me the entire image of broken masts and tattered sails amongst debris abandoned in the sea.  I remember not being able to wrap my head around McQueen’s ability to find the beauty and light from such an ugly, grotesque mess.  The designer’s creativity truly allowed him to produce such amazing pieces like this – wild yet honest and romantic, theatrical yet wearable and sought-after.

It is with this thought that I looked at pictures from his final collection.  A small collection of only 16 looks that McQueen himself draped and cut.  His inspiration took a cue from the work of 15th-century painters like Heironymus Bosch’s “The Garden of Earthly Delights”.  He captured details of the paintings digitally, had them woven into jacquards and engineered to fit his garments.

It was sheer poetry.  McQueen carefully crafted each look to show the heaviness of the old world, from the prints, colour palette and antiques, and directed them towards the new, with the silhouettes, styling and details.  The collection also spoke of serenity with its soft colours and angelic references.  Of course, the designer’s rebellious side was not forgotten with the bandage-bound heads and feathered Mohawk-looking embellishments.

With his love for extreme and avant-garde, McQueen’s work truly goes beyond fashion and into the realm of art.  To have lost him is to have lost a great piece of the fashion industry.  R.I.P. Alexander McQueen.

Image Source: MetMuseum.org, Style.com

Manish Arora pushed for the future with his latest collection that merged Sci-Fi with Bollywood.  His warrior models, with their sharp shoulders and hips jutting out, burst with colour in their sequins, stones and embroidery-filled looks as they came down the runway.  What I loved the most were the bucket-shaped couture-like headdresses in eye-popping colours made with beads, sequins and stones.

Image Sources: GettyImages.com, Style.com

One thing I like about a new season is all the new ad campaigns.  Maybe I’m being over-critical but I’m a bit disappointed by the Spring/Summer 2010 ad campaigns that I’ve seen in the latest issues of various fashion magazines.  When I see a fashion ad, I want to see the designer’s vision, what the brand is all about, the colour palette for the season, the products and much much more.  At least show me some of those elements – what I hate most is seeing yet another lady with a bag! I love ads that are funky, fun and creative.  Here are some of them from the upcoming season…

Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2010 with Claudia Schiffer

GF Ferre Spring/Summer 2010

Balenciaga Spring/Sumer 2010 with Iselin Steiro and Mirte Maas by Steven Meisel

Bvlgari Spring/Summer 2010 with Julianne Moore by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott

Valentino Spring/Summer 2010 with Dree Hemingway by Mert & Marcus

Tom Ford Spring/Summer 2010 with Nicholas Holt and Carolyn Murph

Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2010 with Jamie Bochert by Juergen Teller

Hermes Spring/Summer 2010 with Karlie Kloss

Image Source: Fashionising.com

Celebrating Nars’ 15th anniversary, make up guru Francois Nars launched 15 x 15, a book that is fit for the coffee table featuring 15 artsy portraits of his fashion buddies.  Tanya Ballou, Naomi Campbell, Daphne Guinness, Carla Gugino, Dayle Haddon, Shalom Harlow, Marc Jacobs, Jennifer Jason Leigh, Amanda Lepore, Natasha Poly, Isabella Rossellini, Lisa Marie Smith, Olivier Theyskens, Amber Valletta and François Vincentelli are all featured using star products from the brand.  All proceeds from the project are donated to 15 of the icons’ desired charities.

The looks, created by Nars himself, truly show how you can play with make up!

Marc Jacobs as China Machado wearing Dovima Nail Polish

Natasha Poly in Punk Rock wearing Rated R Duo Eyeshadow

Daphne Guinness in Modern Edwardian wearing Night Breed Single Eyeshadow

To view all portraits or to purchase the book, click here.

Image Sources: 15x15Project.com, NarsCosmetics.com

These hand-embroidered Disney character cushion and duvet covers by Manish Arora.

Image Source: Joyce Holiday 2009 Catalogue

Great shoes that can almost pass as art this Fall!

Christian Louboutin

Prada

Pierre Hardy

Sergio Rossi

Sergio Rossi

Jimmy Choo

Jonathan Kelsey

Image Source: JonathanKelsey.com, PierreHardy.com, SaksFifthAvenue.com, SergioRossi.com

What happens when a girl from a gang collides with an American Indian? You get a fierce look from Rodarte’s Spring 2010 collection.

Case in point:

From the intricate weaving to the complicated draping to the clever use of scraps of material, the Mulleavy sisters’ ability to create couture-like pieces have once again left me in awe.  The collection, inspired by big, black vultures that faced extinction in the late 80s, was filled with elaborate pieces made with materials such as burnt plaid, cheesecloth, feathers and sandpapered silk.  The looks were dark with lots of blood red and burnt black.  The gross colour of the smoke-filled runway accompanied by the goth-inspired makeup and body art just added to the beauty of this collection.

For more of Rodarte’s Spring 2010 collection, click here.

Image Source: Style.com

On Saturday evening, I went to the open discussion at the School of Visual Arts where Cathy Horyn tried to pick the brains of photographer, Juergen Teller.  Many of you may know him as the man who convinced Posh Spice to get into a shopping bag for a Marc Jacobs ad campaign; others know him as the daring photographer who is witty and to the point with his portraits.

Teller talked a little about his past and how he started in photography, his initial work with doing record covers and press shoots for bands before moving into fashion photography, his work with i-D and The Face, and collaborating with people like Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood.  He gave some insight as to how he works and his preference to work as a small operation.  He prefers to work alone with his subjects.  When Cathy moved on to talk about the technology involved in his photography, it was interesting to hear that Teller is quite “anti-digital”.  Blaming his lack of computer knowledge and being stuck in his old ways, he explains that the digital, technological, fast ways that we are so used to now takes away from the time and magic involved in photography.

The discussion went on with Teller touching on working with different characters, designers and campaigns.  There is a lot of trust involved in working with people.  Coming up with successful campaigns takes a lot of brainstorming and planning.  When he knows what he wants, he executes it.  And then of course, there are times when the pieces just fall into place.  “When I’m shooting, sometimes things just happen”, he confidently said.  He gave the example of the Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2009 ad below.  Yes, you saw it right, pardon the model while she jumps out of the window…for a bag.

It was nice to see that Teller has a sense of humour about work and life.  When asked why he liked to take pictures, he explained that taking pictures gives him an excuse for adventures and to really look at things.  His opinions on fashion is that it has a strong influence on culture and is used to make a comment on it.  It shouldn’t be taken too seriously…fashion should be enjoyable.  His pictures say exactly that.

Image Source: Elle.com, MarcJacobs.com